Over the last few decades came across many manner of gun owners
and shooters... some pretty good ones and some in need of
education.
Doing it right with any firearm is important but to get the most
out of a flintlock you have to do your part.
Start with the flint , a good sharp flint ready to shave metal off
the frizzen. That is what is does.
Forget the pretty saw cut agate flints... hard to knapp back without
a grinder and they are super hard n ruin a frizzen real fast.
English flint be the best... plenty of various flints can be had
from other regions that will work just as well.
Keep the flint sharp by learning how to knapp an edge back..
and CLEAN ... keep a ragg or pc. of clothe handy to wipe the burnt
crud off flint between shots.
Make sure it is tight in the jaws , and square to the frizzen so it
takes a wide path of metal off.
Now if ya have one of them cheap imported guns ... I feel for ya.
May want to think about converting too caps or clean it good
and hand on the wall.
You may be able to replace the lock which will take care
of most issues right there... your choice.
Many times if the cheap lock functions you can replace or shoe
the frizzen and get decent sparks.
It is a flintlock capable of fast lock time and near instant
ignition. IT IS NOT A CANNON ... so do not drill out the touch
hole so the powder can flow in. NOT A FUSE ... it is a touch hole.
SPARK ... from burning powder is supposed to shoot into the hole
and ignite the powder in the breech.
Use good dry powder in the pan. 3F does work , I would never
use anything any larger. 4 F WORKS BETTER because it ignites
faster and easier due mainly to an increase in surface area.
I have used as fine as 7f pan powder during competition to give
me an edge.
When you go to LOAD the flintlock , place a touch hole cleaner or wire into the touch hole all the way into the breech and leave in
place during loading.
Once loading is done... remove pick.
Now is when you PRIME the pan of the lock.
Filling it all the way is another mistake commonly made... heard
many who fill it full and make sure the powder flows into touch hole , so it goes off. Through the huge hole they made with the 1/4 HS metal bit.
not the right way to do it... at all
Prime the pan by just filling it 1/3 too 1/2 full ... no more.
Have you frizzen stall in place till ready to fire and on half cock
for safety...while walking or waiting to shoot. PLEASE
Right before you get ready to shoot ... tilt flintlock to the right
so prime powder slides away... thats AWAY from the touch hole.
Want some air between the prime and touch hole ...
so the SPARK has plenty of room to jump on in the hole.
Southpaws with lefties , tilt the other way.
Practice makes perfect and in the use of a flintlock you will find
that with a decent quality arm and YOUR DOING YOUR PART...
it will go off without a hitch time after time.
Lock time will speed up from when you were using 3f and
had the touch hole bored out , if ya headed down that path.
This works... and it works well. Was taught to me many many
years ago by one of the best WOODSMAN and black powder
nuts I know.
Took me a few days to get it all down too habit ... and remember
not to skip steps etc. I learn slow ... but when I attempt to learn
about something and how to do it. I end up doing it right.
Now if ya want to load the pan full and drill out touch holes
and so on ... want to thank you for the chance to kill the deer
you went POOFE' AT ... instead of BOOM.
Keep your powder dry ...
Doc Groundhawg
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